There is something magical that happens when people gather to watch food being prepared.
The cook stirs, chops, sears. Plates are filled and refilled. The diners smile; the cook smiles. Differences and diversities are forgotten with the common bond of sustenance.
And when the food is authentic from a far-away culture, the experience becomes even deeper and more meaningful, just as it did last week in Kathy Howell’s Jonesport kitchen.
Crecenciano “Chano” Herrera, one of 11 brothers and sisters from Mexico, was cooking his native dishes: pollo en tomatilla, picadillo, tacos de barbacoa. If being a chef means formal training, Herrera does not qualify. But if it means cooking from the heart, he is king of the kitchen.
Herrera is one of 600 migrant workers who have made Down East and the Milbridge area their permanent home.
Traveling northeast while following the agricultural harvest from his home in Morelia, Mexico, he has worked demanding, manual labor jobs: blueberry raking, fish processing and aquaculture. After he lost his job when the former Stinson Cannery closed, he now processes sea cucumbers.
From the dance Herrera was doing in the Howells’ kitchen, it is clear that working the stove and creating the food is not just something he does, but part of who he is. It is his birthright, his heritage, and when he steps to the counter, a Mexican fiesta happens.
Herrera doesn’t measure anything. As he makes the tortilla dough, Herrera knows by the feel of it when it is right. He uses his work-worn hands as measuring cups, and his sense of smell and timing tell him when something has cooked long enough.
A pinch of this, a handful of that, and suddenly it is Mexico. “Ooooo. Ahhhhh. Did you try this?” becomes the soundtrack of the meal.
The aromas of spices fill the air, warm tortillas are piled on a plate and glasses of margaritas are held high. More than a dozen local people curiously watch Herrera’s technique, asking for recipes and raving about his traditional Mexican dishes. Herrera is not confident in his English skills, but it doesn’t matter; his cooking ability speaks for him.
It was quite intentional that the meal was Mexican — it was a fundraising fiesta, the kickoff event for a series of cooking classes to benefit Mano en Mano of Milbridge.
There’s something a bit lovely about the town of Milbridge. It curves around the mouth of the Narraguagus River, curls around Narraguagus Bay, and is home to dozens of artists, craftsmen and writers who find there the solitude and beauty they require to create. Its history is the sea. Once a major shipbuilding community, many residents still make their living on the water.
But most importantly, it has become a true bridge, a word which is so aptly a part of its name. Unique to Maine, Milbridge’s population is 6.6 percent Latino — compared to 1.6 percent in the rest of the state. Nearly 15 years ago, migrant farm workers found a sense of home in Milbridge and began putting down roots. Today, more than 600 Latino people live in Milbridge, and Mano en Mano is the bridge they use to become a part of the community.
Formally incorporated in 2005, Mano en Mano — which means hand in hand — provides educational services and scholarships, health care access and general outreach to area Latinos. Ground was broken recently on a million-dollar housing complex for agriculture and aquaculture resources — the first of its kind in the nation.
The bridge that was crossed in the Howells’ kitchen was pretty much a one-way trip; everyone raved about the food, quizzed Herrera about his cooking methods and background and went back for seconds.
Kathleen Shannon, director of the Machias Bay Chamber of Commerce, said the authentic cuisine was great but the cause was equally important. “When there is a need, you help,” she said simply.
“This was a great event, great diversity,” Wendy Harrington of the Maine Sea Coast Mission in Cherryfield said.
Local volunteer Barbara Drisko of Columbia Falls said the meal “is a very exciting opportunity. To work together, to encourage camaraderie for a group that does so much good work, is just wonderful.”
Howell said the goal of the meal was to introduce people to the talents of the Mano en Mano families. “They cook, they sew, they craft,” she said. “We hope to expand beyond a series of cooking classes. We hope to offer classes and enrichment at schools and local churches. What a great way to bridge the cultures.”
As empty dishes were cleared and visitors said goodbye, Herrera admitted he had been nervous. With his thick Latino accent he said, “I feel good because people liked my food. It is good, yes?”
Oh yes, Chano, it is very good. La comida es rica.
Cooking classes will be held each Monday evening through April. More information may be obtained by calling Howell at 800-320-7414. The classes are $35 each or $100 for three, and each class includes a meal. Class sizes are limited.
RECIPES:
Kathy’s Margarita
Take one can frozen limeade, add two cans of water and two cans of ginger ale. Alcohol can be added if preferred.
Mexican Guacamole
Use the following ingredients in amounts you prefer: fresh tomatoes, onion, jalapeno peppers (with seeds) and avocados. Chano chops each vegetable very fine, sprinkles with a bit of salt and pepper and squeezes fresh lime juice to taste while mixing well. This can be served as is, as a topping on tortillas or to smother cooked chicken.
Pollo en Tomatillo
Again, Chano does not measure his ingredients. Cook several potatoes and poach boneless chicken in hot water until just cooked. Dice the potato and chicken with onion, and one or two tomatoes. Add chopped garlic and salt to taste. Add one can of chipotles. Serve hot with tortillas.