Outdoors
The BDN outdoors section brings readers into the woods, waters and wild places of Maine. It features stories on hunting, fishing, wildlife, conservation and recreation, told by people who live these experiences. This section emphasizes hands-on knowledge, field reports, issues, trends and the traditions that define life outside in Maine. Read more Outdoors stories here.
Our alarm went off at 12:30 a.m. Yes, you read that right.
Our flight out of Halifax wasn’t until noon, but we had a seven-hour drive ahead of us. We wanted to build in plenty of time for fuel, food, bathroom breaks and any unexpected delays.
Where were we headed?
We were about to embark on a trip that every fly angler dreams about — a week in Labrador chasing giant brook trout at Igloo Lake Lodge.
This was our second time hosting a group of eight clients at the lodge, and we couldn’t wait to see old friends while making new ones.
A trip like this requires a lot of preparation. You need the right rods, reels, flies, clothing, rain gear and wading equipment. Once you’re there, you’re incredibly remote. The only way in or out is by floatplane, so if you forget something, you’re out of luck.
Packing light is also important because you’re limited to 50 pounds on the floatplane. My duffel weighed only 25 pounds, but I also carried a backpack with four fly rods attached. Inside the pack were my wading boots, waders and reels.
Hosting a trip like this actually begins almost a year in advance. Stac and I organize everything for eight anglers coming from around the country, so we’re the go-to people for just about every question imaginable.
We make sure everyone knows when to arrive and depart, what additional expenses to expect, what life is like at the lodge and what gear they’ll need. We also help everyone select the proper flies and tackle. We recommend bringing at least a 6-weight fly rod, along with knotable wire leaders for the northern pike.
Some of our guests enjoy tying every fly they’ll fish.
Bob tied an incredible 764 flies based on recommendations from the lodge, me and the staff at Bear’s Den Fly Shop. Paul tied nearly as many after researching magazine articles and Labrador fishing history.
Both were rewarded by catching fish on flies they tied themselves.
I tied several dozen flies before the trip, and I was fortunate enough to catch trophy fish on my own patterns as well.
Others chose to purchase flies from Bear’s Den Fly Shop. That’s the beauty of a trip like this — there’s no right or wrong way to prepare. You make it your own.
Our group included anglers from California, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Michigan and Maine.
Everyone eventually funnels through Halifax. Those of us from northern New England chose to drive, while the others flew. For us, the seven-hour drive isn’t bad considering we drive 10 hours every fall to fish New York.
The route is simple: head north on Interstate 95 to Houlton, cross into Canada and continue across Nova Scotia to Halifax.
From Halifax, it’s about a two-hour flight to Goose Bay, which served as a strategic military base during the Vietnam War. Interestingly, both this year and last year our pilots had actually been stationed there during the war.
Once we arrive in Goose Bay, a driver from Igloo Lake Lodge meets us at the airport, brings us to our hotel and even takes us to the local fly shop for any last-minute supplies.
The following morning, we’re picked up at the hotel and arrive at the lodge around 8:30 a.m.
The previous week’s guests are preparing to leave while we’re welcomed inside for breakfast. After a quick orientation covering safety and fishing regulations, we waste no time.
We go fishing immediately.
Stac and I fish with Dereck, who oversees maintenance at the lodge but is also a licensed guide. That allows the full-time guides to take care of our guests.
In Labrador, you cannot fish without a guide, so each guide fishes with two anglers. Most of our guests came with fishing partners, but Jeremy and Paul traveled alone, so we paired them together.
Since we’re the only group at the lodge each week, it almost feels like we have the entire wilderness to ourselves.
There are countless places to target giant brook trout.
The lodge is strictly catch-and-release, and all hooks must be barbless. Between fishing locations, the guides often troll while searching for rising fish, giving everyone another opportunity to hook a trophy. That’s especially important for anglers who may not be able to hike or wade long distances.
This year we had one angler who had never fly-fished before and another who had been fly fishing only once. Thanks to the guides and the carefully managed fishery, both had legitimate opportunities at trophy trout.
Over many years, the lodge has identified numerous productive locations and rotates anglers through them. They also rest certain areas to prevent overfishing.
Fish care is taken very seriously. Trout remain in the water until photographs are ready, and a net is always kept beneath the fish during pictures in case it’s dropped. The staff takes tremendous pride in protecting these incredible brook trout.
This year’s weather couldn’t have been more different from last year.
Last year was warm, calm and almost perfect.
This year we dealt with rain and strong winds, which even made it difficult for the floatplanes to fly into the lodge.
Those floatplanes are important because they provide access to Burton Pond, one of the highlights of the trip.
Every guest spends two days there, and it’s a place you simply don’t want to miss. Giant brook trout regularly rise to dry flies.
You can hike the mile into Burton Pond or pay $250 per person for the floatplane ride. This year I finally flew in, although Stac and I usually enjoy making the hike.
Over the next six days, every angler in our group caught a brook trout weighing more than five pounds. Several landed fish over seven pounds, and one guest landed an unbelievable 9-pound brook trout.
On the very first day, I caught around 50 brook trout, ranging from tiny 2-inch fish to about 15 inches.
I know what you’re thinking — you’re in Labrador, why aren’t you only chasing giants?
Because we simply love fishing.
Stac even took one day off to relax around the lodge, enjoying the scenery and a slower pace.
Charlie skipped an afternoon of fishing to take a nap, yet still landed a 7½-pound brook trout — remarkable considering it was only his second time fly fishing.
Stac landed a beautiful 5-pound brook trout, and we also tangled with several impressive northern pike.
It seems that wherever Labrador grows giant brook trout, giant pike aren’t far behind. I managed a thick 34-inch northern pike. Not the biggest pike in Labrador, but on a 6-weight fly rod it was an absolute blast.
A trip like this becomes whatever you want it to be.
You can fish hard from daylight until dark in search of the brook trout of a lifetime, or you can slow down, relax, enjoy the scenery and simply appreciate being in one of the most beautiful places on Earth.
For Stac and me, though, one of the biggest reasons we keep coming back is the people.
The staff at Igloo Lake Lodge truly makes the experience special. Most are from Newfoundland, and they are some of the hardest-working, friendliest people you’ll ever meet. They treat you like family and work tirelessly to make every trip unforgettable.
If you’ve ever dreamed about catching the brook trout of a lifetime in one of the most remote places in North America, Igloo Lake Lodge offers that opportunity.
We’re already putting together trips for the next few years. If you’d like to experience Labrador with us, reach out. We’d love to share the adventure with you.
