PORTLAND, Maine — Breakfast can be slapdash. Dinner can be fancy and pricy. Lunch? Who has time for more than a burrito inhaled between texts? But brunch poses an alternative: time to settle into a corner booth and let an endless, eggy extravagance take over.
In Portland this fall a handful of new places are turning out satisfying morning and midday fare. Not to be outdone, the tried and true strengthen their brunch game with new bents on Benedicts, strong coffee and stronger drinks.
Shall we dig in?
Isa Bistro
79 Portland St.
WHAT: A casual, focused menu in this sleek black-and-white bistro with uptown flair. The thrust here is local, fresh and homemade. Chef Isaul Perez brings as much fire in the a.m. as he does at night. Brunch and lunch share the spotlight on weekends.
SIGNATURE DISHES: Eggs Benedict featuring house-made biscuits, bacon and home fries. Braised lamb from North Star Sheep Farm is slow cooked and served on homemade focaccia with caramelized onions and horseradish cream.
DRINK: Bloody Marys with house-made chili sauce impart smoky depth to the boozy brunch staple. For a twist, try Perez’s beer cocktail: Pacifico cerveza spiked with dried, salted chiles and lime sauce. In your cup, Tandem Coffee is the java of choice.
DON’T MISS: New fall desserts such as pumpkin mousse with whipped mascarpone topped with pepita brittle.
BONUS: Parking lot in the back and deck for Indian summer days.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
TIQA
327 Commercial St.
WHAT: Huge, swank Mediterranean restaurant anchoring the Courtyard Marriott. Executive chef Robert Krajewski cooks, his wife, Lynette Mosher, bakes. Together they are “brunchinizing” world street food and retooling morning classics.
SIGNATURE DISHES: Lamjun flatbread. This Turkish dish is built on a housemade pita baked with lamb confit and topped with an herb salad and sunny-side eggs. “It’s one of the dishes I am most proud of,” said Krajewski. The result is “ethereal and fluffy,” adds Mosher, whose salted caramel babka is not to be overlooked. Move over sticky bun.
DRINK: Blood orange mimosa, or harissa bloody Mary.
DON’T MISS: Israel-style potato latkes. Crisp, shredded potatoes with onions and scallions “take up the whole plate,” said Krajewski. Served with fried eggs and creme fraiche, it’s a protein-packed meal.
BONUS: Coffee By Design created the perfect blend to complement this international fare. Arrives in a French press, four sizes.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.
Sur Lie
11 Free St.
WHAT: Eclectic brunch in a friendly, small-plates den. Inventive and cheerful chef Emil Rivera “drafts the menu on Saturday nights but, the ‘Sunday morning feeling’ pretty much makes the last call.” A popular downtown offering since Mother’s Day.
SIGNATURE DISH: The Fat Boy Breakfast: buttermilk pancake, bacon sausage, maple syrup, cheddar sauce and fried egg. Need we say more? Good fuel for the morning after.
DRINK: Gazpacho bloody Mary, the salad that drinks like a cocktail.
DON’T MISS: Golden potato hash brown with piquillo emulsion and crispy fried egg.
BONUS: Maine blueberry and lemon glaze doughnuts to pop between courses.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday.
Bayside American Cafe
98 Portland St.
WHAT: Eggs served a dozen ways in a buzzy, turn-of-the-century building, formerly Bintliffs. “With the arched ceiling, it feels like a big old ship,” said general manager Joe Catoggio. “People feel comfortable here.” And so will you.
SIGNATURE DISHES: Bayou Benedict, a play on the classic featuring andouille sausage on grilled corn cakes slathered with Cajun-style hollandaise, “just enough to know its there.” Lobster Benedict features a half lobster per order. No traitors there.
DRINK: Bloody Marys with tequila or a Bellini, the elegant peach juice and champagne refresher.
DON’T MISS: Cinnamon roll pancakes, which “took the restaurant by storm.” Americans have a sweet tooth and this dish topped with creme anglaise frosting will make you swoon.
BONUS: The open, friendly kitchen is like a comedy act on the mad weekends. Grab a cup of coffee as you wait for your table and take in the show.
HOURS: 7 to 2 p.m. seven days a week. Brunch all day.
Outliers Eatery
231 York St.
SIGNATURE DISHES: Duck hash with poached eggs served with sweet potatoes and beets. Gourmet blueberry lemon pancakes have couples, families and singletons coming back for more.
DRINK: Boozy coffee: Swift River Coffee spiked with Jameson Irish Whiskey and Baileys. This will cut through the autumn fog over the Fore River.
DON’T MISS: One of the best decks in town with views of the Casco Bay Bridge.
BONUS: Urban elan tucked into the quiet West End and crispy pig ears with chipotle maple glaze.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.
